When thermometers rise in Rio and shady spots are sought out, it’s important to know where to go to escape both the heat and the crowds. Leafy Jardim Botânico is certainly enticing, but local luxury travel experts Dehouche recommend bypassing the hordes pouring in here and heading instead to its slightly younger sister, Parque Lage, lying just a little further down the street.
Ask a Carioca when they last went to ‘Sugarloaf’ and they’ll reply that it was several years ago when their cousin last visited from São Paulo. Ask them when they last went to ‘Parque Lage’ and the more likely response is that they have never actually been. Dehouche suggest taking advantage of this heinous oversight.
Parque Lage lies at the foot of Corcovado, far enough away from the traffic roaring down ‘Rua Jardim Botânico’ that it’s easy to forget the hustle of the city. Backed by acres of Atlantic rainforest and with the lagoon just in front, it benefits from a more agreeable temperature than many other parts of the city.
The park’s life began back in the early 19th century when English landscape architect John Tyndale was commissioned to design the gardens, imprinting upon the landscape the romantic style so popular in his home country at that time. In the mid 18th century the land was acquired by the Lage family in whose hands it stayed until 1913.
After a brief spell in possession of another, the park was re-appropriated by Henrique Lage in 1920, who in the same decade invited Italian architect Mario Vodret, to redesign both the gardens and impressive colonial mansion which today stands at their forefront. The eclectic style he brought with him was greatly appreciated by Henrique’s wife, Italian singer Gabriela Bezanzoni, at that time a prominent figure on the Carioca party circuit and known for hosting lavish events. Sadly, Parque Lage’s heyday was short lived and Henrique was later forced to sell the property to pay his debts. Fortunately however, the park was saved by the state, receiving protection as part of the city’s cultural heritage and opening to the public in the 1960s.
Climb the steps to the mansion and inside discover the scene which pleased Gabriela so much; an incandescent green swimming pool encircled by a courtyard, the imposing architecture of the mansion reflected in its still waters. Take a seat under the arches, where the comfortable low tables of the café are adorned generously with cushions and interspersed with displays of artwork from the art school housed here today. Order one of the delicious home made quiches before they are swiped from the kitchen window by the monkeys from the park behind.
Dehouche particularly recommend stopping by for the weekend buffet breakfast, when the courtyard fills with live music, as the perfect way to start the day on your honeymoon. If you manage to resist the temptation to overindulge, linger long enough to explore the rambling park behind; if you’re feeling particularly adventurous, it’s possible to hike through the subtropical rainforest to the summit of Corcovado itself.
Let Dehouche arrange your luxury boutique hotel and enjoy a whole host of insider tips on where to truly escape from it all on your honeymoon.
Dehouche S.A.,
Leblon,
Rio de Janeiro ,
Brazil.
www.dehouche.com
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