You could be forgiven for thinking that life in Brazil, or at least in Rio, is one long carnival parade, as exhibitionists strut up and down the streets in outlandish costumes, liable to break into dance at any moment. Certainly the ‘Paulistanos’ (São Paulo residents) would have little to say to dispute this.
Technically however, Carnival is just one day. Known in some parts of the world as ‘Fat Tuesday’ or ‘Mardi Gras’, and ‘Shrove Tuesday’ to Brits, the last day before lent is celebrated the world over; yet these celebrations take somewhat different forms. Whilst Brits are devouring mountains of pancakes with lemon and sugar, Brazilians are shaking their lithe toned bodies to the rhythms of samba, axé and maracatú, to name but a few. What’s more, Brazilians can’t stop at just one day and insist on turning this festival into a week long party, with the majority of businesses closing and normal life coming to a standstill for five full days. So if you fancy swapping a night of pancakes for a week of revelry, read on.
Carnival is perhaps Brazil’s most famous export and Rio’s carnival is perhaps the most famous of them all. Samba schools spend practically the entire year preparing for a performance to surpass all others, beginning their preparations when the previous year’s visitors are still heading home, abandoning the costumes they are unable to squeeze inside their bulging suitcases at the international airport.
It’s impossible to overestimate the seriousness with which this competition is taken as Rio’s Samba schools vie each year for prime position. Rio’s samba schools began to emerge as early as the 1920s and their lives have not escaped controversy; few schools have not suffered allegations of allegiances with drug traffickers; suspicions of money laundering or being used as a mask for criminal activities. Recent years have seen government investment in the schools in an attempt to protect them from corruption.
It’s possible to attend the schools’ rehearsals from November onwards, by taking a journey to some of the more impoverished areas of the city. Though these days the rehearsals are frequented by many foreign visitors, it can still be quite a jaw dropping spectacle to those who were not born shuffling their feet to Samba. But if you’re curious to see behind the doors of one of these legendary institutions, ask local luxury travel experts Dehouche for more details on how to organise an excursion.
The long awaited parade itself takes place over two days inside the ‘Sambódromo’, the creation of Rio’s most famous architect son, Niemeyer, and the world’s most famous show is quite simply a unique and unforgettable experience.
What have now re-emerged to rival this performance in popularity however, are the ‘blocos’ (or street parties). For impatience sake, these too, begin well in advance of carnival week itself, with ‘pre-carnaval blocos’ taking over Rio’s streets as early as January. In recent years the ‘blocos’ have gained so many extra followers, that the very details of their locality and time of departure are a closely guarded secret, rarely divulged to the public and if divulged, usually only as a ‘diversion tactic’. Be warned.
Rio’s carnival may be the most well known and is unarguably spectacular; however, if you’re looking for a laid back holiday or some quiet time on your honeymoon, Carnival is not necessarily the best time to visit this city. Almost a million tourists flock to Rio at this time of year and accommodation prices rocket.
The city is a hive of activity, bursting at the seams, and after five days of continuous partying, the lack of public toilets could not be more apparent.
Dehouche, who are based in Rio themselves, recommend instead heading for the historical city of Olinda, in Pernambuco, North East Brazil. Olinda is one of the oldest cities in Brazil, founded in 1535 and according to legend, earned it’s name when Portuguese Duarte Coelho first stumbled upon the location, exclaiming ‘Oh, linda situação para se construir uma vila’ ‘Oh what a beautiful place to build a villa.’ Today Olinda’s beauty is undisputed, declared a world heritage site by UNESCO in 1982, Olinda was also voted the first Brazilian capital of culture in 2006. Unsurprisingly, Olinda’s carnival is one of the most traditional and the festivities are an opportunity to experience another side of Brazilian culture and an insight into the origins of this colourful city.
If you thought Samba was difficult, then it’s time to try the frenetic Pernambuco rhythms of ‘Frevo’. The name ‘Frevo’ originates from the Portuguese ‘ferver’ (to boil) and effervescent you need to be to perform the acrobatic steps of this dance. Frevo has its roots in Capoeira, the martial art that evolved amongst Africans sold into slavery in Brazil; when Frevo first emerged in the 19th century ‘Capoeiristas’ traditionally led the parade in order to defend the ‘bloco’ from rival ‘blocos’. Even the colourful parasols twirled by the dancers today, were at one time a means of defence.
Also native to Pernambuco, is percussion led Maracatu. Like many Brazilian traditions, Maracatu owes its existence to a blend of Indigenous, African and European influences; though the dance was principally born out of rebellion against the Portuguese court. The procession, composed of a myriad of costumed characters, is held up by a king and queen at the rear and is intended to represent the old African courts, showing that despite being captured and sold into slavery, their nobility was kept alive.
These are ‘blocos’ to admire, but there are also those where all abilities can take part and there’s no need to be a professional dancer to enjoy Olinda’s carnival. Once you’ve ‘frevoed’ until your heels are sore, watch the giant doll race, when grown men don enormous costumes, one man per leg of doll, and limber up and down the cobbled streets, sprayed by the water pistols of onlookers, in the hope of winning a large cash prize.
Let Dehouche arrange your luxury boutique hotel and enjoy a whole host of insider tips on where to truly escape from it all on your honeymoon.
Dehouche S.A.,
Leblon,
Rio de Janeiro ,
Brazil.
www.dehouche.com
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